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Ball pythons are named for their defense behavior of rolling into a tight ball with their head in the middle. Like all other pythons, ball pythons have spurs at their vents. There are many different color morphs and patterns available today in captive bred specimens. The “standard” ball python has large chocolate brown markings with lighter medium-brown spots interspersed between the darker spots. The belly is generally off-white or a pale gray. Killerbee yellowbelly is a morph that produces a striking yellow pattern.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the utmost importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12 inches x 36 inches).

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80° – 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° – 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° – 80° F.

Heat/Light: Heat pads and heat bulbs can be used to keep their enclosure at a steady temperature. There has been no evidence to suggest that photo periods affect the keeping of ball pythons. If a regular photo period is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent bulbs

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Poison dart frogs are frogs of the Dendrobatid group. Colombian Indians utilize the 3 species of poison dart frogs to poison arrows for hunting. Some of these frogs are extremely poisonous in the wild, but lose much of their toxicity when kept in captivity due to the change in their diet. In the wild, the frogs eat ants that eat poisonous plants, while in captivity they don’t get to eat these ants. In captivity, poison dart frogs are harmless. These frogs range in adult size from 2 and half inches to some that never get bigger than your thumbnail! These frogs can enjoy a long life (there are reports of these frogs living for over 20 years in captivity). As long as a few things are kept in mind when you are planning the acquisition of your new pets, Poison Dart Frogs make great pets.

The chinese water dragon, Physignathus cocincinus, is also known as the Asian or green water dragon. They are native to mainland China, some of the islands of Indonesia, much of southeast Asia, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. In the wild they live near flowing creeks, small ponds and other bodies of fresh water in forested areas, and are frequently found lounging on tree limbs high above water as they are also arboreal. When they feel threatened they will nose-dive straight down into the water and remain hiding there until the threat has passed, sometimes for upwards of 25 minutes.

A mature male water dragon is bright green with black speckling along with a throat that can range from blue, red, orange, yellow, or any combination of these colors, making them a beautiful and highly sought after lizard for hobbyists. Females boast a beautiful emerald green coloring with blue striping along the back and bright pink throats. Juvenile water dragons exhibit an orange-yellow hue beneath the two front “armpits,” and for males the head crest and spines along the back will grow larger with age. The throats of males turn from white to a blue or orange color, depending on individual genetics, while females retain white throats through the sub-adult stage. A female’s head crest appears underdeveloped compared to a male’s, and the spikes are appear stubbier than the male’s sharper spikes. For both males and females their very long tails can make up nearly two-thirds of their total length, averaging around 3 feet for males and 2½ to 3 feet for females.

Temperatures need to be warm for these lizards. For babies this should include a basking spot of 95 to 101 degrees with an ambient temperature in the mid 80s. At night, temperatures may dip to the low 70s, but not any cooler than that because dragons could become sluggish and less likely to eat regularly. For juveniles and adults their enclosure should have a basking spot of 120 degrees with an ambient temperature in the mid 80s as well. In addition to heat lamps or ceramic heat emitters, water dragons require UVB lightingto prevent disease and to ensure they can digest their food properly and to ensure a healthy growth rate. 

Their enclosure should include lots of vegetation (either artificial or nontoxic live plants) along with many branches and climbing vines. They also do well with a water feature of some sort, whether a larger water dish that they are able to fully submerge themselves in, a ‘swimming pool area’ or even a waterfall.

The large size and bright colors of Phelsuma grandis give these geckos their two common names: the crimson day gecko and the giant day gecko. This arboreal species lives in humid forests in northern Madagascar. The general nature of these geckos is to be flighty, quick, and they do not generally enjoy being handled. They are great as display animals, but are generally considered a pet for more experienced reptiles enthusiasts.

As an arboreal species, these geckos prefer an environment that includes pieces of cork bark, branches, large bamboo sticks, and plants to ensure they have areas to hide. They also require plenty of climbing material in order to thrive in captivity. Their environment should be maintained at temperatures of 75-80F, which includes a basking area heated to 85-90F. As with all day geckos, a UVB light is recommended for no less than 12 hours per day, to be shut off completely at night. The humidity should remain around 60-70%, including daily misting, to keep the substrate moist and maintain higher humidity within the enclosure. It is almost important to ensure their is enough ventilation to allow some of the moisture to evaporate throughout the day.

Giant day geckos are omnivorous, with a staple diet of crickets and mixed greens and gecko diet mix. The general rule for insect size if is to only offer those whose length does not exceed the space in between the gecko’s eyes. As they grow older they can of course accept larger crickets and Black Soldier Fly Larvae, with the occasional treat of waxworms.

White’s treefrog coloration varies from jade green to blue (the most popular phase) to olive-green and olive-brown. Some specimens are sparsely or liberally spotted with “off-white.” Attempts are being made by herpetoculturists to perpetuate and stabilize blue and spotted morphs.

In keeping with their arboreal tendencies, vertically oriented terraria suit active White’s treefrogs the best. They will use and appreciate firmly attached horizontal perches of a diameter that at least equals their bodies’. Elevated corkbark tubes and platforms, situated on either a horizontal or diagonal plane, are also favored by these frogs.